Farbenmix Manhattan Special Occaision Dress Tutorial

This fabulous dress is from the book "Sewing Clothes Kids Love" by Nancy Langdon and Nadine Pollehn. There are fantastic color photos of many different examples of this dress in the book, also included are full sized patterns and diagrammed written instructions.

Note: If you are buying this book double check that the pattern sheets are made from thick white paper and not the tissue from the original printing.

I found the instructions to be pretty clear but I thought I might make a tutorial for those that found them challenging. I hope this helps someone:)

Picking a size:

Read the sizing chart at the beginning of the book to decide on a size, keep in mind that each pattern size is actually two sizes, for example the first size is 18m/2T (Euro sizing 86/92)  even though the sizing chart at the beginning of the book has all the sizes separated. The benefit of this dress is that you can cinch the back (or sides) a lot or a little so it can fit over a very long period of time. I usually go by chest size when choosing a dress size, however, with this pattern that is a little tough since it is designed to be larger in the chest and be cinched in. You can also take into account height, Euro patterns often go by height. Because of the lacing I would err on the large side when choosing a size.

I chose to go with 3T/4T (98/104) for S. even though I knew it would be a tad big. She is 2 1/2 and a little big for her age. I did have to take 2 1/2" off the hem.

Picking Fabric:

This pattern is great for using up some scraps. The tiny pieces in the bodice can be made from all sorts of fabrics to create a very unique look. I'm not sure why most of the dresses in the book are made from almost entirely one fabric, I chose quite a different look. So far I have only made one size but I found the fabric requirements to be in extreme excess. Don't choose your amount of fabric with these guidelines in mind or you will end up with far too much!

I suggest drawing a quick sketch of the dress to plan out which fabric goes where since there are so many different pieces. Try combining all sorts of prints and solids for an interesting look. Include any ribbons or trim that will also enhance the dress.

Tracing the pattern pieces:

Find the pattern sheet with the Manhattan pieces on it and spread it out flat on a solid surface (I always use the floor). Get your tracing medium (I like to use painting tarp from Home Depot, large nuts to hold the plastic down and sharpies to trace) and place it over the pattern sheet. Trace each piece, be sure to trace the correct size and to indicate what letter corresponds to each piece. Many of them look very similar and you don't want to get confused! Additionally, make sure to transfer all pattern markings, particularly where the top of each piece is. I cannot emphasize enough the importance of marking which letter each piece is and where the top is. (Don't cut the pieces out yet!)

Below are some pictures of how the pieces lay out so that you can get a feel for what goes where are where the top is of each piece.

Front:

 Back:

Make sure to make note of the grain lines. If you are using a stripe or plaid at all it will be important so that everything lines up.

Add a seam allowance to the pattern pieces before cutting them out. I added a 1/4" seam allowance but you could add more if you wanted.

Finally cut out the pattern pieces.


Cutting the Fabric:

Here is a list of all the pattern pieces and how many to cut for each piece:

A Bodice center front - cut 1 on fold from shell fabric and 1 on fold from lining fabric
B Bodice side front - cut 2 from shell fabric and 2 from lining fabric
C Bodice lower side back - cut 2 from shell fabric and 2 from lining fabric
D Lower center back - cut 1 on fold from shell fabric and 1 on fold from lining fabric
E Bodice Upper center back - cut 1 on fold from shell fabric and 1 on fold from lining fabric
F Bodice Upper side back - cut 2 from shell fabric and 2 from lining fabric
G Bodice front shoulder -  cut 2 from shell fabric and 2 from lining fabric
H Cap sleeve -  cut 2 from shell fabric and 2 from lining fabric, cut 2 from interfacing
I Collar - cut 1 on fold from shell fabric and 1 on fold from lining fabric, cut 1 from interfacing
J Skirt upper front -  cut 1 on fold from shell fabric and 1 on fold from lining fabric
K Skirt upper side - cut 1 from shell fabric and 1 from lining fabric
L Skirt upper back - cut 1 on fold from shell fabric and 1 on fold from lining fabric
M Skirt lower panel front, side, back - Cut 4 on fold from shell fabric and 4 on fold from lining fabric

note: I did not line the skirt so I did not cut the lining for these pieces. I omitted the cap sleeves and did not cut these either.

Fold each piece of fabric right sides together and trace each pattern piece onto the fabric with a fabric marker. Make sure to transfer all markings, pattern identification letters and where the top of each piece is with a marker that will not fade. Make sure to place the required pieces along the fold of the fabric before cutting. Pin each piece so that it does not shift while cutting. Cut out each pattern piece and transfer the markings to the backside of each piece so that each and every piece has the pattern info on it.

Sewing Info:

A note on curved seams -
Many of the pieces are curved, sewing along curves can be tricky, it is very important to pin the pieces together to insure that you do not get puckers in the seams if the fabric shifts mid-seam. When pinning a curved piece to a more straight piece place the more curved piece on top and put one pin at the top and bottom corners (where the seam will start and stop). Then place a pin where the middle of the seam will be. Place pins along the curve between the top and middle and the bottom and middle easing the fabric to distribute it evenly. This may seem like extra steps but you will be much happier with the outcome if you take the time to do this before sewing each seam.

A note on top-stitching -
There is a lot of top-stitching in this pattern, every seam is top-stitched except for two (the side seams)! Top-stitching makes a garment look much more professional and adds strength to each seam. I would definitely recommend following the directions and doing the top-stitching, it does take longer but it is worth it in the end. Make sure to press each seam in the correct direction before top-stitching for a clean look.

I actually ended up top-stitching the lining pieces as well, you wouldn't have to do that; if you choose not to top-stitch the lining make sure to press each lining seam open.

Since the bodice is fully lined you don't need to finish the bodice seam allowances, however, because the skirt layers are not sewed together you will want to finish the seam allowances to prevent fraying.

Sewing:

Always place right sides of fabric together unless otherwise stated.

1)  If you want to embelish the front of the dress (Piece A) then do this now, that way all the raw edges of the ribbons and trims will be hidden in the seams.

Sew the bodice center front piece (A) to the two bodice side-front pieces (B). This is a curved seam so pin according to the instructions above. Repeat for the lining.

 2) Press each seam towards the center of the bodice and topstitch.

3) To create the ribbon loops for the back of the bodice (or the side if you choose it), cut two pieces of scrap ribbon that run the length of the outer sides of the lower center back piece (D). Divide the ribbon equally. Cut 8 pieces of the loop ribbon 2 1/2" long and pin each loop ribbon onto the scrap ribbon with the raw edges lining up on one edge of the scrap ribbon and the loops all hanging over the other. Sew along the scrap ribbon thereby sewing the loop ribbons down.

4) Pin the scrap ribbon along the outer seam of the shell lower center back piece (D) and baste. Place so the loops are pointing into the center of the lower center back piece. Make sure to hang the other edge of the scrap ribbon off the edge so that it does not show in the final seam. Alternatively you could use a thicker scrap ribbon that would be seen in the final seam as an accent.

5) Sew the lower side back pieces (C) to the lower center back piece (D) as you did for the front bodice in step #1. Do not topstitch these seams for the shell, that will come later. Press so loops go towards the center of the bodice piece.

Sew the lining lower side back pieces (C) to the lining lower center back piece (D) and press seam to the center. Topstitch.

6) Sew the bodice upper side back pieces (F) to either side of the bodice upper center back piece (E) as you did for the front bodice in step #1. Press the seam towards the center bodice and topstitch. Repeat for the lining.

7) Sew the upper back bodice pieces to the lower back bodice piece aligning seams. Press upwards and top-stitch. Repeat for the lining.

8) Sew the front shoulder pieces (G) to the upper edge of the back bodice with the pieces angled outwards. Press seams towards the shoulders and topstitch. Repeat for lining.

9) Sew the bodice front to the bodice back at the sides seams. Repeat for the lining.

 10) Fuse the interfacing to the lining piece of the collar and pin the two collar (I) pieces right sides together. Sew around the outer curved edge. Grade the seam and cut notches.

note: Grading means cutting the lining layer of the seam allowance closer to the seam than the shell layer, this causes the lining to curl under slightly and gives a more professional look.

Notching the curved seam allowance reduces bulk and creates and nice curve in the finished garment.

11) Turn the collar right side out and topstitch this seam.

note: You would repeat these steps for the cap sleeves (H) if you were sewing them. I chose to omit them for this version of the dress.

12) Pin the collar to the bodice shell neckline aligning the center of the collar to the center of the bodice. Make sure that the corner edges of the collar fall at the same location on both front shoulder pieces so that they will be even in the finished garment. Cheat the corners of the collar slight inwards towards the seam allowance to insure that they are caught in the seam and no raw edges will be peaking out. Baste the collar onto the shell.

12) With right sides together pin the lining neckline to the shell lining, thereby sandwiching the collar. Sew this seam. Check to make sure no fabric is puckered in the seam. If it is, pick out the puckers and sew them smooth. Grade and notch the seam as you did with the collar. (Make sure you do the grading and notching, it will make the neckline lay straight and will make the topstitching easier.)

13) Turn the bodice right side out and press all along the seam sewed in #12. Pin along the seam and topstitch.

note: if you were adding cap sleeves you would add them now using the same steps as for the collar.

14) Turn the bodice back inside out and pin the lining and shell shoulder pieces with right sides together. Sew along the armhole edges stopping at the side seams. Grade and notch seams.

15) Turn the bodice right side, and press. Don't topstitch yet.

16) Pin the shoulder pieces, matching notches, right sides together, to the front of the bodice shell and baste. Try the bodice on your child to make sure the fit is right. You can move the shoulder pieces to the right or left or cut the shoulder pieces slightly shorter to insure a proper fit. (I moved the shoulder pieces 1/4" to the center and cut off 1/4".)

17) When you know the fit is right place the lining and shell of the front bodice right sides together and sew along the curved seam thereby sandwiching the shoulder pieces. Stop sewing at 1/4" before the side seams. This will make for a cleaner armhole. Grade seams and notch.

18) Press side bodice seams open (these were sewn in step #9). Turn bodice right side out and press all along front of bodice and armhole seams. Topstitch armholes and bodice front in one step starting at the front of one armhole. You may want to pin before topstitching to prevent the fabric from shifting.

19) Sew along the elastic casing lines on bodice lower center back piece (D). Sew through the shell and lining, thereby creating a casing between the two.

20) To find the length of elastic for the casings, measure the distance along one casing and mulitply by 0.7 (70%). Cut three pieces of 3/8" elastic this calculeted length. Using a saftey pin, run each elastic through it's casing and pin it to the seam allowance where the scrap ribbon fabric is sewn. Make sure at least 3/8" of the elastic is sticking out into the seam. When all raw edges of elastic are pinned down at the seam allowance, topstitch the center/side back seam thereby tacking down all the elastics and securing them.

 21) If you are going to using a shell and lining for the skirt portion omit this step.

Baste down the raw edges of the bodice securing the lining to the shell at the bottom of the bodice.

22) Sew the skirt upper front shell piece (J) to one of the skirt lower shell pieces (M).  Press the seam upwards and topstitching. Repeat for the lining if you have one.

 23) Repeat step #22 for the side skirt pieces and back skirt pieces.

24) Pin front skirt piece to side pieces and pin back piece to side pieces to complete skirt. Sew seams, press towards center skirt pieces and topstitch. Repeat for lining if necessary.

note: the wider side of the side pieces goes towards the back of the skirt.

25) Sew any trims to the shell skirt portion at this point.

26) Sew two rows of basting stitches along the top of the side sections of the skirt. Repeat for lining if necessary. Pull on bobbin threads to gather fabric.

note: Sew one row of basting stitches at 1/8" from the raw edge and one at 1/2". Then when you sew your seam you will enclose the first row of basting stitches and you can pick out the second one.

27) With the bodice right side out and the skirt inside out pin the skirt to the bodice. Align the front skirt seams with the seams on the front bodice and the back skirt seams with the seams on the back bodice. Adjust gathers in the side skirt to fit the side portion of the bodice. Sew the skirt to the bodice. Press towards the bodice and topstitch.

note: if you are using a lined skirt you will sew the skirt lining to the bodice lining and the skirt shell to the bodice shell so that the raw edges are all facing each other and are hidden between the shell and lining.

28) Finish the hem. I chose to serge and then topstich down. You may want to fold the hem twice and then topstitch. Repeat for lining if necessay.

29) Lace your ribbon through your ribbon loops.

30) Try it on an enjoy!!!

Farbenmix Pitt Sew-a-long! (Tutorial)

I really really love these pants but sadly the instructions are only in German and the photo tutorial on the Farbenmix site is not too hot - even if you use google translate! I decided to make a sew-a-long so that anyone English out there has a much better chance at succeeding with these pants. I'm going to include all the little tips and tricks I have learned about how to make awesome pants for your little one:)

There are quite a few steps so stick with me, you'll be glad you did when you get to the end!

So here goes....

Picking a size:

First of all you need to decide on a size. I like to compare the actually pattern pieces to a pair of RTW pants (or possibly another pattern that you have) just to make sure you get the right sizing. I find the Pitt pattern to be slightly baggy (a look I love!), keep this in mind. You won't need to a zipper fly unless your little one is a little on the fluffy side. This tutorial does not use a zipper fly, I will do that another day.

You can always adjust the length of the inseam by adding to the pattern.

Materials:

1 1/2" elastic, 1" less then the exact waist of your child
kid's glue stick (for holding seams down)
Fabric for your pants (possibly more than one type if you want a mixed look)
Fabric for lining the pockets
twill tape, embroidery,...embellishments... (optional)
Sewing machine
coordinating thread
serger (optional)
scissors, needles, ....

Tracing:

Here are the English translations for the different pattern pieces:

Some are direct translations, some are what I think they should be called.

1) pants front, top - cut two of pants fabric
2) pants front, center (knee patches) - cut two of pants fabric
3) pants front, bottom- cut two of pants fabric
4) pants back, side pieces- cut two of pants fabric
5) pants back, top- cut two of pants fabric
6) pants back, bottom- cut two of pants fabric
7) back of front pocket- cut two of pants fabric
8) front pocket facing- cut two of lining
9) back pocket  - cut two of pants fabric, two of lining
10) side pocket (ruler pocket) - cut one of pants fabric
11) belt loop - DO NOT ADD SEAM ALLOWANCE - cut 5 of pants fabric or cut one 20"x 2" strip and cut into five after sewn
12) Fly sheild (not necessary for a faux fly) - cut one of pants fabric
13) waistband - cut one on the fold of pants fabric (if you are adding a real fly you will have to extend this piece for the overlap at the button)

Next you need to trace off your pattern onto something. I like to use 4 mil or 6 mil plastic painting tarp from Home Depot. You can get it in the paint department. It is thick and durable and you can easily see through it. I used sharpies to trace the lines and large nuts (also from HD) to hold it all down.

You are also going to want to label each pattern piece and right on it where the top and bottom or center front/center back is on it so you don't get confused. Transfer all markings to the pattern pieces as well. Make sure when you transfer the markings for the knee patches that you make a right and left patch with darts that mirror each other.

Adding a seam allowance:

This pattern does not include a seam allowance. You can add a seam allowance to straight seams with a clear ruler and for curved seams you can mark off 1/2" (or whatever your sa is) every 1" (or so) on the curve and then connect the dots afterwards. You will need to have your dots closer together the more tight the curve.

I really like using a 1/2" seam allowance, you'll want to add something more that 1/4" because when we do our double top-stitiching you'll want to catch the seam with the second row of stitches and you won't be able to do that if you only have 1/4" to work with.

I only added 1/4" seam allowance to the top of the pants (both the front and back pieces and the waistband since I don't need all that bulk in the waistband and there is no double top-stitching there. I also added only 1/4" sa to the back pockets because the seam is hidden (they are turned and top-stitched) and I would only have to cut off the sa when triming the raw edges for turning. (If this is confusing just add 1/2" to everything and trim later!) I also added only 1/4" sa to the bottom of the ruler pocket. The hem allowance at the top of the ruler pocket is already included in the pattern.

Don't add a seam allowance to the belt loop piece.

Cutting the fabric:

Choose which fabric you will be using for the different pattern pieces and make sure the fabric is pre-washed and ironed. You need at least two of most pieces so fold the fabric in half, right sides together, and arrange the pattern pieces so they take up the least amount of fabric. Hold the pattern pieces down with the nuts from before and then trace around with a fabric marker. Remove the plastic pattern pieces and cut out your fabric pattern pieces. Transfer all markings to each pattern piece. The darts on the knee patches and the faux fly markings will need to go on the wrong side of the fabric and the pocket markings will need to go on the right side of the fabric.

Add embelishments:

If you are going to add any embroidery or ribbons/twill tape add it now. It is easier to add when nothing is sewn together because there is less bulk to deal with and all the edges of the embelishments will get sewn down nicely when you sew everything together.

I added embroidery just below the front pockets and on the back pocket. I also added twill tape to the bottom leg. You can do anything and everything! Don't hesitate to mix and match colors, textures and prints. I find the more you do the more awesome it looks!

Preparing to sew:

You'll want to pick a thread color for top-stitching and a thread color for serging so that you don't have to switch your threads around all the time. I usually pick the serger thread to match the pants fabric and the top-stitching to contrast the pants fabric and match some of the embroidery. If you really want the top-stitching thread to stand out run two threads of the same color through the machine (or use top-stitching thread). I usually match the bobbin thread to the top-stitching thread. If you are not using a serger then you will just be finishing the raw edges with your sewing machine and this will already be threaded with the top-stitching color:)

Sewing instructions:

1) Place pants front, top (#1) and and front pocket facing (#8) right sides together and sew the top and diagonal seams. Trim down to 1/4" and grade seams. (Grading means cutting the lining fabric 1/8" shorter then the pants fabric all along the seam allowance so that when you turn right side out the lining curves under the pants fabric and you don't see the lining.)

 2) Turn the pocket facing to the wrong side, poke out the corner with a blunt pencil and press. Top-stitch the diagonal seam stopping at the corner. Topstitch again using your presser foot as a guide.

Note: You want to stop at the corner because you'll want to sew the top horizontal part to the back of front pocket (#7) in the following steps. You want to finish your top-stitching so that when you sew the horizontal seam the sewing lines meet up and it looks like one continuous seam. Don't forget to back tack to secure your seams.

 3) Pin the back of front pocket (#7) piece to the pocket facing, right sides together. Stitch the bottom portion of the pocket and finish the seam.

 4) Sew the horizontal seam you ignored in step #2, thereby securing the back of front pocket (#7) to the pants front, top (#1) piece. Line up your stitching so that it meets the original stitching and looks like one continuous seam. Remember to back tack.

At the sides of the pants, baste 1/8" from the raw edges to secure the pocket and pants pieces together.

You will want to add a bar tack (see the faux fly section for info on that) where the two seams meet. This will strengthen the pocket opening for when your little one puts his or her hands in and out. I'm not going to do this because I'm going to use rivets which I will add at the end.

5) Now put those pieces aside and pick up the pants front, center (knee patches) (#2). Pin the darts so that the right sides of the fabric are touching. Put your pin through one line of the dart marking and make sure that it goes through to the line on the other side to ensure the darts are lined up properly. When you sew the dart always start at the raw edge and slowly sew towards the point. Sew off the end of the point and leave a long tail of thread. Tie the tails in a knot and cut the threads to 1/4". Do not back tack at the end of the dart or you will get little pointy things on the finished pants and this won't look good! (Trust me!)


Again, before you sew the darts make sure that you have right and left knee patches with darts that mirror each other.

 6) Iron the darts so that the side with the two darts have the darts pointing up and down and the side with the one dart has the dart pointing down. (Really the directions don't matter but this is what I did.)

Top-stitch the darts down, sewing from the raw edges to the point, back tack at the point. Just do one line of top-stitching.

 7) Pin the pants front, top (#1) to the top of the knee patches and the pants front, bottom (#3) to the bottom of the knee patches, right sides together. You are going to pin on the side of the pants (not the knee patches) curving the pants piece around the curve of the knee patches. Use lots of pins and make sure it is smooth so you don't get any unwanted pleats on the front of the pants. Sew these seams and finish the edges. Sew on the pants side of the seam.

 8) Iron the seams towards the knee patches and double top-stitch the seams down.

 9) Take the two front pants pieces and place them right sides together, sew along the fly seam as marked on the pattern pieces and finish the raw edges of the fly.

 10) Fold the fly piece to the left side (taken when the pants are worn) and iron it down. Using a fabric marker and a ruler, mark the straight portion of the line and then estimate the curved portion. Sew along the line you just drew and then sew another line inside of that to double top-stitch the fly seam to create the faux fly.

 11) Put bar tacks on the fly. These are not really functional and purely aesthetic but they make the pants look more professional. Mark where you want the bar tacks with a fabric marker. Change the settings on your machine to have a narrow, close together zig zag (test it out on scrap first) and then sew the bar tacks.

 12) Now on to the side pocket. Finish the top diagonal edge of the side pocket (ruler pocket) (#10). Fold down the hem allowance and use some kid's glue stick to hold it down. Press with an iron.

 13) Double top-stitch the hem allowance down or use some twill tape to accomplish the same thing.

 14) Fold up the bottom of the ruler pocket by 1/4", glue stick and iron.

 15) Following the pattern markings, place the ruler pocket on one of the pants back, side pieces (#4). Line up the tall end of the pocket with the outside edge of the side pants piece. Double top-stitch the bottom of the pocket and then baste the side edges of the pocket 1/8" from the raw edge of the pants to hold it in place.

 15) Pin pants back, top (#5) to the pants back, side (#4) pieces. Pin and sew on top of the side pieces and work around the curve as you did with the knee patches. Finish edges.

 16) Iron the seam allowance towards the pants back, top pieces (#5) and double top-stitch.

 17) Pin and then sew the pants back, bottom (#6) to the back piece from step 16. Finish the raw edges.

 17) Press the seam allowance upwards and double top-stitch.

 18) Now for the back pockets. Take back pockets (#9) and place the pieces cut from the pants material and the pieces cut from lining right sides together, matching the shape. Sew all the way around leaving a space for turning at the bottom. Grade the seams as you did with the front pockets.

 19) Turn the pockets right side out and push out the corners with a dull pencil. Press.

 20) Double top-stitch between pattern markings on the sides of the pockets. This will be where the pocket opening will be. This step is similar to the front pockets.

 21) Place the pockets on the back pants pieces according to the pattern marking. Use your glue stick and iron to hold it down. Top-stitch all the way around, thereby closing the bottom turning hole and matching up your stitching with the stitching from step 20. Sew bar tacks where the stitching from step 21 meets the stitching from step 20 to make the pocket more durable. (Again, I am not doing bar tacks because I will be using rivets).

 22) Now to put the pants together. Pin and sew the front pants to the back pants along the outside seams. Finish the seams.

 23) Fold the seam allowance towards the back, press and double top-stitch.

 24) With right sides together, pin and sew the back crotch seam. Finish the raw edge.

 25) With right sides together line up the inseam, pin, sew and finish the raw edge.

 26) Measure a piece of 1 1/2" wide elastic to 1" less than your child's exact waist size. Butt the ends together and do a wide zig zag up and down the raw edges, bringing them together and securing them. This makes a smooth join with no bumps.

 27) With the waistband right sides together sew the short ends together. Press the seam open.

With your glue stick fold and secure one of the raw edges down all the way around. (Don't skip this, it makes it easier to sew the waistband down in the end).

 28) Pin the waistband with the right side of the waistband facing the wrong side of the pants. Line up the raw edge (not the folded one) of the waistband with the raw edge of the pants. Sew all the way around (you don't need to finish this seam because it will be concealed.)

 30) Iron the waistband up.

 31) Place the elastic around the waistband, fold the waistband down over the elastic so that the folded edge from step 27 meets the front of the pants. Pin the folded edge just below the sewn seam from step 30. Stretch the elastic to adjust so that you can pin the waistband down all the way around. Use lots of pins.

 32) Turn the pants inside out and sew on the inside of the pants. Sew along the folded edge, as close to the edge as possible. Thereby concealing the elastic and pants/waistband seam allowance inside the waistband. Try not to sew on the elastic. You are trying to create a casing.

 33) I like to sew an additional seam down the middle, tacking the elastic down. This step is optional.

 34) To hem the pants fold up 1/4", tack down with glue stick and ironing, then fold up another 1" and tack it down with glue stick and ironing.

Sew the hem from the right side of the pants. Sew on the inside of the cuff as you did with the waistband.

35) Now for the belt loops. The pattern has you cutting out each belt loop separately - you can do this if you want but it is much faster to cut one long strip, sew it together and then cut it into the proper length pieces. So cut one long strip that is 20" x 2", finish one long raw edge.

I only had scraps to work with so I had to do a bit of both!

 36) Fold the unfinished edge into the middle, glue stick it down, fold the finished edge on top of that so that you are folding the piece in three. Glue stick it down. Make sure that the finished edge is almost at the folded edge but not going past it. You shouldn't see it when you look at the right side of the belt loop.

 37) Sew two rows of top-stitching, thereby tacking down the finished edge on the backside of the belt loop.

Cut into 5 equal pieces (4 inches each).

If you choose to do the belt loops individually you just do the same but for each piece individually.

 38) Pin each belt loop with raw edges tucked under onto the waistband.

You will want to have one belt loop right on the middle back seam, two belt loops 1" to the outside of the bar tack on the front pockets and two belt loops on the back 1 1/2" from the side seams. These are just estimate measurements, I was making the size 98/104 so if you are making a different size you might need something different.

 39) To sew the top and bottom of the belt loop do a bar tack. You might have to make the stitch length a bit longer so the machine can push through the thick layers of fabric. Make sure that the bar tack does not run off the side of the belt loop.

Congrats! You are done! Enjoy your Farbenmix Pitt pants!!